tipped with villas or convents. We left unseen the Great Duke's villas and several palaces in Florence, till our return from Eome: the weather has been so cold, how could one go to them ? In Italy they seem to have found out how hot their climate is, but not how cold ; for there are scarce any chimneys, and most of the apartments painted in fresco; so that one has the additional horror of freezing with imaginary marble. The men hang little earthen pans of coals upon their wrists, and the women have portable stoves under their petticoats to warm their nakedness, and carry silver shovels in their pockets, with which their cicisbeos stir them—Hush! by them, I mean their stoves. I have nothing more to tell you; I'll carry my letter to Eome and finish it there. Re di Coffano, March 23, where lived one of the three kings. The King of Coffano carried presents of myrrh, gold, and frankincense: I don't know where the devil he found them; for in all his dominions we have not seen the value of a shrub. We have the honour of lodging under his roof tonight. Lord! such a place, such an extent of ugliness! A lone inn upon a black mountain, by the side of an old fortress! no curtains or windows, only shutters! no testers to the beds! no earthly thing to eat but some eggs and a few little fishes ! This lovely spot is now known by the name of Kadicofani. Coming down a steep hill with two miserable hackneys, one fell under the chaise; and while we were disengaging him, a chaise came by with a person in a red cloak, a white handkerchief on its head, and a black hat: we thought it a fat old woman; but it spoke in a shrill little pip^ and proved itself to be Senesino \ I forgot to tell you an inscription I copied from the portal of the dome of Siena : I-ranceaco Bernard!, known as Senesino, a celebrated singer.